ON EASTER ISLAND:

Port at La Perouse Bay
- By Georgia Lee

The northeast coast of Isla de Pascua is spectacular. A dirt road runs inland from the coastline, and on both sides of the road one can see ruins of shrines, fallen stone statues, and other evidence of the old culture of Rapa Nui. There are few trees. Horses graze amongst the ruins.

The ocean along this part of the coast varies from pale turquoise to deep blue, and great waves crash on the rocky shore. As one continues north, the lovely sheltered cove known as Ovahe comes into view, with its pink sand beach. This wild and pristine area appears doomed by what many think is an ill-advised plan to build a port right in the middle of the coastline, at La Pérouse Bay.

The island can use a good port and the Chilean Navy is interested in having a port facilities on the island. However, a port now exists on the west coast, near the island’s only village, Hanga Roa. Instead of focusing efforts on the existing port, which already has caused major destruction to the archaeological sites there, plans are to build another port at La Pérouse Bay. It will be an archaeological disaster and will destroy the lovely ambience of the north coast.

The projected new 70 meter long port will have cement pads for container shipping of cargo headed to the western Pacific and the Far East. A staging area will be need for containers to be loaded and off-loaded. Electricity will be brought in, cranes, and various structures to house equipment.

One reasoning for the port, aside from the shipping of cargo, is said to be the need for disembarking tourists from the large tour ships that occasionally pass by the island. If seas are heavy, they cannot bring passengers ashore. However, tour ships number around three per year, and stay at the island less than one day.

Already archaeological studies are being conducted at La Pérouse to “mitigate” the loss of the island’s heritage. Many Rapa Nui islanders are outraged by the thought of the descration that will occur; those in favor of “progress” are pushing the project forward. But they do not realize that tourists who come to the island (and tourism is the most viable “industry” for the island) are there to see and experience the evocative ruins and unspoiled landscape, not to have an ugly commercial port placed in the midst of an otherwise natural area.

On March 22, 1996, UNESCO declared Easter Island a Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad, a condition that establishes an obligation to the Chilean government to watch over the island’s preservation and protection. UNESCO representatives praised the island’s unique qualities and impressive heritage, urging Chile to maintain the island’s exceptional natural characteristics. And yet plans for the port at La Pérouse are going forward.

Dates have been announced for the 1998 Tapati festival: January 30-February 14. This is the first time the festival has been planned for a two week span of time.

Hangaroa has its own newspaper! Te Rapa Nui, The Gazette of Easter Island' is the name of a new paper to which you now can subscribe. Issued four times a year, the most recent issue is 8 pages, some in color. Text is in English as well as Spanish. The paper is under the direction of Juan Soler Bolt and edited by Caroline Hotu Hey. For subscriptions, send checks payable to "Editorial Te Rapa Nui", Correo, Isla de Pascua, Chile. Price is $10 US. [It is not clear, but apparently checks on a US bank are acceptable]. Te Rapa Nui is intended to become "a small light radiating Te Pito O Te Henua . . . outwards" and oriented toward the social progress of the island and its people. The current issue has articles on the recent festival in Samoa, the National Park, and the arrival of the King of Spain. Let's support this effort!

A few recent and famous visitors to Rapa Nui include the Norwegian explorer, Thor Heyerdahl, who made a visit to the island as part of a documentary about the investigations he began in 1955.

Japanese Prince Hitachi and his wife stayed three days on the island as part of their tour to Chile. The Japanese government has donated US$2 million to conserve the patrimony of Rapa Nui.

According to El Mercurio De Valparaiso, 18 October 1997, the City Council of Hanga Roa has petitioned for the removal of Mayor Pedro Edmunds Paoa "for notable abandonment of responsibilities" and "multiple irregularities and arbitrary administration of the municipality". The petition was presented before the Electoral Tribunal at Valparaiso by Antonio Oneto, attorney representing Alberto Hotus, Marcelo Pont, Claudio Cristino, Enrique Pakarati, and Rodrigo Norambuena.

A recent communication from the island expressed anxiety over the problem of mixing alcohol and driving. Young islanders are increasingly involved in nasty accidents that are drinking-related. One such casualty recently resulted in the amputation of a leg. Those who are caught up in drinking episodes are generally young, out of school, and unemployed. Older residents complain of brawls and other transgressions, and voice concern that tourists will be offended or antagonized.

A fire that recently burned over 50 hectares at Rano Kau volcano and blazed for three days is said to have started from the slash-and-burn practice of islanders who periodically set fire to the grassland. It has been suggested by CONAF that grazing areas on the island be limited in order to avoid damage to the cultural patrimony of the island. At least three distinct places separated by 500 to 1000 meters show indications of intentional fires set to burn off dry grass and thus promote new vegetation for grazing animals. The fire entered the crater at three sectors. Last July, 500 saplings of mako'i were planted there, thanks to a grant from PNUD, a UN program of development. The news report was not clear as to whether or not these small trees survived.CONAF chief, J.M. Ramirez, said that a strong wind, scarcity of water, and limited personnel hampered efforts. He noted that because islanders do not have access to other land for grazing their animals, they use National Park land. Governor Hey said that blame for the fire cannot be placed as yet, but that everyone should protect the environment and the ecology.
-El Mercurio de Santiago, 14 September 1997

SPECIAL WALKING TOURS OF EASTER ISLAND are being plugged on the Chilean mainland; advertisements suggest hiking as a way to see the island. Getting around on bicycle is also being touted. The Chilean press (El Mercurio de Valparaiso) points out that one can get to know Isla de Pascua by auto in a couple of days but, on a bike, the adventure "can be metaphysical". In case you can't guess, the news items gives ten reasons why one should bike on Easter Island: (1) the road is "the destiny" and time unimportant; (2) the road acquires a significance of its own; (3) there is satisfaction in arriving at one's destiny; (4) one can talk with locals; (5) the bumpiness connects one to the land; (6) one can reach places a car cannot; (7) at day's end one feels well; (8) biking removes stress; (9) a broken bike can be repaired but not a broken car; and (10) it implies a life that is "chaste and pure." (Bikes are a recent phenomena on the island, seen only in the past few years; the ruts that formerly served for roads were hardly the stuff for bicycles. But now roads are improved and bikes are becoming more common. However, that track around the north coast has to be an acid test.)

Lights are being installed at the soccer field. Floodlights, placed on 60 foot towers, will light up the entire area, presumably for night games.

AN EARTHWATCH TEAM, under the direction of Dr Christopher Stevenson, has discovered a large number of sites inland from Ahu Heki'i (La Perouse Bay). Among these are a number of basalt quarries and reduction areas where toki were being manufactured. They also identified large repositories of raw material for the making of toki but are not sure at this time where these boulders came from.

- Rapa Nui Journal Vol. 11, No. 4 December 1977

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